In 2000, I embarked on an extraordinary journey to the Philippine islands supporting the Voluntary Service Overseas programme (VSO), where I spent over two and a half years immersed in the stunning yet contrasting tropical environment. The Philippines, an archipelago of 7,107 islands at low tide, is a land of breathtaking beauty and stark environmental degradation. Working in Mindanao in Hinatuan situated in Surigao del Sur, and later on in Roxas in Palawan, and other areas, I witnessed the Philippines' rich biodiversity firsthand.
Each day brought a new sight: vibrant coral reefs, lush seagrass meadows, and majestic mangrove forests. Yet just a short distance from these natural wonders, I saw the heartbreaking impact of human activity — algae-choked seagrass beds, dynamited coral reefs, and mangroves cut down for charcoal, depriving an already exhausted fishery of valuable nursery grounds for developmental and young fish. In Surigao del Sur, I collaborated with local stakeholders and fisherfolk, training them in marine conservation monitoring methods to protect the very ecosystems that sustained their communities. These efforts often led to memorable experiences, like dancing to The Offspring in a friend's mosquito-laden garden, sharing beers and rum with local fishermen under the starlit sky.
One of my most profound memories was discovering a small, previously unknown population of dugongs in Hinatuan and working with the national media and government to research and protect them while working with local fisherfolk. These gentle sea creatures, often mistaken for manatees, face significant threats due to hunting for their meat. In Palawan, I worked with local NGOs and the Voluntary Service Overseas to protect these dugongs from fishing nets while also fostering a network of locals passionate about marine conservation, supporting their survival given their endangered status.
"As the sun rose over the still waters, I walked them back into the sea, ensuring they were revived before watching them swim away — a moment of pure joy and connection to the natural world."
Early on, my days often began at the fish markets, where I observed the day's catch and played dominos with the fishermen, always ensuring they received fair compensation even if I lost the game — nothing wrong with a small bet or two! Staying in a simple nipa hut by the sea on the seashore, I was lulled to sleep each night by the sound of waves and awakened by the same gentle rhythm each morning gently crashing on the beach sands.
One morning, two young boys brought me two coral cat sharks. These resilient creatures, similar to epaulette sharks, can tolerate low oxygen levels and being out of water for short periods. I purchased the sharks for a modest sum (about 10 pesos) and, as the sun rose over the still waters, I walked them back into the sea, ensuring they were revived before watching them swim away — a moment of pure joy and connection to the natural world, watching a small shark dorsal fin just break the still waters swimming off into the distance as the morning sun rose.
Another time, I encountered fishermen on the same beach early in the morning with newly born blacktip sharks, their umbilical scars still fresh. Holding these now deceased beautiful creatures, with their perfectly formed eyes and glistening skin, was both awe-inspiring and tragic, as they lay lifeless in the sun, victims of overfishing barely a few days old.
The Philippines is indeed a land of contrasts, where beauty and biodiversity coexist with exploitation and destruction. These experiences deepened my understanding of the socio-economic challenges faced by local fisherfolk. I learned that at any given time in the year 2000, over a million Filipinos were at sea each day, seeking fish for their livelihoods and depending on it more and more. My time in the Philippines was a testament to the delicate balance between conservation and survival. It was a period filled with unforgettable encounters with sharks and marine life, set against the backdrop of a country rich in history and natural splendour. My passion for sharks and dedication to working with the amazing people of the Philippines remains a defining chapter of my life.
What this encounter taught me
My time in the Philippines was a testament to the delicate balance between conservation and survival. My passion for sharks and dedication to working with the amazing people of the Philippines remains a defining chapter of my life.
